By Holly Chapman

Holly gives us her English-speaker’s survival guide to the Russian city of St Petersburg.

Anyone subjected to my company for even a minimal amount of time knows that I went to Russia. My flatmates can recite the stories of my year abroad better than I can. But at the risk of sounding cheesy, I came to call this incredible country home, and, in my defense, it is a topic of conversation that is always met with surprise and intrigue from my peers. However, despite my best efforts, my enthusiasm has not been infectious: I am yet to persuade anyone to actually visit.

Russia is still a country shrouded in mystery, but (maybe it was blind optimism or the two years of poor Russian language knowledge I had behind me), that never really crossed my mind. St Petersburg is a place like no other, with the right balance for any tourist. And to make things easier, I’ll give you a few tips and tricks to survive without the Russian language.

Transport

Pulkovo Airport is where you’ll most likely start your journey. If you are feeling adventurous and don’t feel like paying the £10 taxi fare from the airport to the city centre, I recommend the shuttle bus 39, which should take around an hour from the airport, and after 8 stops take you to “Метро Московская” (Moscovskaya Metro bus stop), where (surprise surprise) you catch the Metro. Take the second line towards Парнас (Parnas) and get off at “Невский проспект” (Nevsky Prospect). And tah dah, you have (hopefully) arrived in the very heart of St Petersburg for just over a pound! Bring small change: bus conductors have no mercy for tourists with big notes.

Some metro stations in St Petersburg are simply stunning. They are littered with artwork and the grandeur of the ceilings make the tube feel like the poor relation. I personally think St Petersburg (especially if you are staying in the centre) can almost always be done on foot, so buy a card and only top it up when necessary. Equally, taxis are cheap. I would recommend only ordering through the Yandex taxi app or Uber because unlicensed cabs can not only rip you off but also be very dangerous.

Accommodation

Hostels and Airbnb work just as well in Russia as they do in many major European cities. The exchange rate works in your favour, so splashing out on accommodation near Nevsky Prospect is well worth it. My personal recommendation would be Baby Lemonade Hostel, especially if you want a very social atmosphere. It is in the very heart of the city and the restaurant ‘Jack & Chan’ located next door is a great place for a quick bite to eat.

Food

Now, this is where my bias kicks in. Russian food? I could take it or leave it. But, if it is your first time, you cannot visit without trying some of the essentials.

Here is your tick list: Блины (blini, type of pancake), сырники (syrniki, quark pancakes with sour cheese), Борщ (Borsch, soup), пироги (pirogi, pies of different varieties) and Пельмени (Pelmeni, meat-filled dumpling). This should be washed down with some Морс (Mors) or сбитень (Sbiten). Equally, I would meet my Russian friends for вереники (the vegetarian dumpling equivalent) at Дачники (Dachniki, a traditional restaurant on Nevsky).

Don’t expect English in any restaurant or bar, aside from maybe the Irish pub. This may require a lot of pointing and miming. If this article teaches you anything, remember спасибо, SPA-SI-BA, aka “Thank you”, which should see you through fine. And fellow vegans, use the постное меню (postnoi menu) which is entirely vegan).

My final word on food: try Georgian food. It is the holy grail of all cuisines available in Russia. Top recommendations: Restaurant Cha Cha or Phali Hinkahli (пхали хинкали).

Must-sees

Museums and monuments are what make St Petersburg a fit city to rival Paris or Vienna, but you can read about that anywhere. If you want to experience the creative and rebellious underside of St Petersburg, there are many outlets for small businesses, art studios and bars clustered together in spaces called Lofts.

Visit Голицын лофт (Golitsyn Loft) for a drink and great food, or Лофт Проект ЭТАЖИ (Loft Proyekt Etazhi) for shopping in its second-hand shops and a rooftop view of St Petersburg. Another hidden gem off the beaten track is Эрарта (Erarta), a mind-blowing contemporary art museum a little out of town.

Finally, even for the most unsuspecting amongst us, watching a Russian ice hockey match can turn you in to the most devoted fan of the СКА (SKA, St Petersburg’s team). The stadium is a metro ride outside the city and the journey might need some planning because it will get unbearably busy right before.

Going out

St Petersburg does not come short of options. If you are looking for bars, start at Golitsyn loft. Try Bar Barbosa or stay in the centre of the city and try Mishka (2-for-1 weekday cocktails). I cannot emphasise enough how much you should avoid the dingy tourist trap that is Dumskaya Ulitsa, but a favourite of mine is танцплощадка (Tansploshadka, literally translates to dance square). Best drunk food: Hood street food.

Now although I could go on for hours with the specifics of where to find the best espresso martini or buy the best matryoshka doll, I don’t think I’m going to retain anyone’s attention for any longer. I hope this whistle-stop tour was somewhat useful, and all you need now is your visa for a trip of a lifetime!

St.Art does not own the rights to any of the images above.