York in a Weekend: Wandering Through the Medieval City
By: Helen Furst
If you’re searching for an easy yet fun destination for a long weekend visit, look no further than York, England! This medieval city is alive with a bustling atmosphere and offers both historic and modern attractions that’ll pique your interest. It’s only a three-hour train ride from Leuchars, which is made easier if you’ve got a railcard. I found it to be a pleasant and quick trip through the rolling green countryside.
Once you get to York, you’ll probably be ready to put your bags away and explore. A lot of the time, Airbnbs and hotels don’t let you check in and drop off your luggage until later in the day, but you shouldn’t let that stop you from checking out the city. Right by the Minster, there’s a great little bag drop location called Yorbag Left Luggage. The guy that runs it is a chatty older man with a quick wit and, because he offers a student discount, it only costs £4 to leave a suitcase with him for a couple of hours.
For a charming and homely breakfast spot that’ll put you in mind of Cottage Kitchen or North Point back home in St Andrews, try out Bruks Café! I sat down and immediately entered into what felt like a family brunch hotspot; kids were running around, the waitress and owner were engaged in a loud discussion from one end of the room to the other, and regular customers chattered to one another as if they dropped by every Sunday morning. The owner gave me a little cookie on the house with my reasonably-priced latte and even remembered me when, a day later, I paid Bruks a second visit for tea and a slice of their mouth-watering lemon-lavender cake.
From Bruks, turn the corner and saunter down the street, past shops cramped together and street guitarists, to reach the imposing York Minster, completed back in 1472. You’ll see your destination from anywhere in the medieval city with its sky-high Gothic spires, but up close it’s stunning, especially when set against the autumn leaves. Another pro tip – check out the lovely green behind the cathedral for your chance to pet a bunch of local dogs (one standout was Stuart the labradoodle, who was dressed in a pumpkin sweater set and looked about 100 years old).
While you’re there, if you’re interested in seeing some local feminist history, cut through the park right behind the Minster to Elizabeth Montagu’s house. She was the founder of the historic 18th-century Blue Stockings movement that sought to provide a space for women to engage in intellectual discussions of literature and the arts.
Continue from there back into the vast array of shopping streets to the famous Shambles, the narrow, medieval street most known for being the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter – it's packed full of witchy shops and potion-themed (and likely overpriced) cocktail bars. It’s worth seeing maybe once, but after about a minute, the crowds are somewhat overwhelming; my advice is to avoid hanging around the Shambles for longer than it takes to snap a couple of cute pictures of the thatched roofs and charming awnings, and definitely wait for sundown, when the crowds have dwindled somewhat.
If, after a long day, you’re seeking a restaurant with a great ambience, there’s a very cute inn down by the Minster called The Fat Badger with a restaurant/bar I’d highly recommend. With an atmosphere that’s cosy and ripe for conversation by candlelight, it has beautiful dark green walls and funky paintings of various animals in suits. They also serve dinner until quite late, which seemed to be a rarity in the town judging by how long it took for me to find somewhere with a kitchen open past 8:30.
If you're feeling up for a post-dinner drink, there are a couple of places I’d check out that are within a two-minute walk from the Minster. For a vibrant and upbeat atmosphere, try out the Three-Legged Mare, which offers loud music and lively people. If you’re in the mood for a quieter pub scene, a bit further down High Petergate Street is Guy Fawkes Inn, which – you guessed correctly! – is where the infamous Catholic conspiracist was born. It’s got a rich history and boasts a cheap pint – what more can you ask for?
Alternatively, if you’re looking for a sober night out, why not try a ghost tour for a mere £5? There’s one that runs from the front of the Minster, and it’ll take you all around town in about an hour. The tour guide is a real character – with his dark getup, the tricorne hat that slants down to hide one of his eyes, and his lofty, chilling voice, you can’t help but take him semi-seriously when he describes the vast array of deceased spirits haunting the walls of the medieval city.
The next morning, a great place to go for a run or a leisurely walk is Museum Gardens, a park located down by the River Ouse boasting beautiful greenery and picturesque ruins. Or, for a great view of the city, climb up the city walls that encircle the old town.
Lastly, if you’re like me, you can’t officially call yourself a tourist in England without going out for some afternoon tea. Betty’s Tea Rooms are a famous historical staple, and while the tea and scones affirm the café’s good reputation, it’s worth bearing in mind that the price is quite steep.
In all, there are a whole host of activities, historical sites, and restaurants to try out if you ever find yourself in this gorgeous and exciting medieval city. If you’re searching for the perfect reading week travel spot or even a long weekend destination, York is the place for you!