Article by: Luka Terihaj

As charity fashion shows in St Andrews continue to cater more towards the ‘fashion tourist’ over the ‘fashion purist’, DONT WALK 2019 managed to rise up from the ashes of adversity and keep the notion of fashion relevant.

With the Bowhouse barn scorched in infernal red lighting and the throb of a pulsating baseline echoing around the runway, DONT WALK 2019 rose from the ashes of uncertainty to give us their view of Hell.

Red has become synonymous with DONT WALK’s branding over the last year as they look to distance themselves from the black and white imagery we have come to expect. This was particularly noticeable in the show’s opening, which unapologetically incorporated devilish tones of rouge. A particular highlight was a red leather biker jacket that was half-tumbled leather and half-nubuck. It was paired with a (you guessed it!) seductive, red PVC pencil skirt, and the look was a statement of intent. The clothes served as a constant reminder that we were in their underworld.

The fashion team made no attempt to hide their love for structured robes: the audience was treated to a wide variety of options courtesy of Dubai-based designer, Zaid Farouki. A navy, tailored kimono-style blazer was paired with suit trousers of the same wool to create a look that oozed effortless elegance. The blazer was fastened with a slick, brown leather strap that curved gently around the model, with a cut that drew undeniable parallels between the tailoring offered in Kim Jones’ recent Dior Men collections. The audience had their appetite whetted further when a long silk robe was paraded down the runway in a shimmering jade hue. Coupled with matching silk sweatpants, it was desirable, wearable and unquestionably luxe.

It appears practically impossible to have a fashion show in 2019 without at least expressing a muted nod towards streetwear, and DW 2019 did not deviate from this trend. Offerings included re-purposed leather jackets with DIY-painted artwork from SULKE, spiral snakeskin screen prints on Sebastian Yager X DW denim, and the ironic prints on the back of Environmentally Conscious Outfitters’ sheepskin jackets. The latter had a print that referenced a pack of Marlboro cigarettes with the tongue-in-cheek tagline of “FASHION KILLS” where one would expect a “Smoking Kills” warning. As the fashion industry begins to tackle its long-standing issues with sustainability, it was encouraging to see DW engage in the discussion, and we can only hope that this motif will continue to be a focus of future shows.

Photos by Lightbox

The showstopper of the night was from a young designer studying Fashion Design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw: a truly sensational cross-cut shirt-dress by Hasmik Beata Karapetyan. The garment appeared to be more like a piece of modern architecture than an item of clothing and had both a delicacy and firmness to it. Aside from this spectacular garment that closed the show, an honourable mention must go to her floor-length traditional Polish folk dress. This dress had been reinterpreted from its original rustic look as a serene white gown embellished with pearls, signalling the completion of DONT WALK’s rise from the ashes into a purer, new world.