Makeup Behind the Mask
By Meg Dyson
With masks compulsory in shops and other public places for the foreseeable future, it's time to reconsider our makeup looks. Until recently, contoured cheekbones, blinding highlight and eye-catching lip colours have been the look; but with most of this covered by our masks, it might be time to highlight our eyes. Here, I've collated a range of looks from runways, Instagram, influencers and Netflix; so, whether you are wanting some easy inspiration or a whole new look, there will be something here for you to try.
Bright Colours
A common feature from a range of AW20 runway trends was the use of an amazing, intense swipe of colour across the eye. This can be seen on models for Tadashi Shoji, a look created by makeup artist Daniel Martin. Martin used a dual-fibre brush to create what he describes as hashtag points, instead of just filling the lid with colour, creating an intricate shape that can only be seen from close range.
Similarly, Lauren Parsons, makeup artist for Self-Portrait's AW20, featured a graphic stripe of neon peach eyeshadow, giving a modern twist of '80s eye makeup.
Looks like these can easily be recreated using an eyeshadow base and bright eyeshadow. Danielle Marcan uses P.Louise x Mmmmitchell Acid Reign Cosmetic Paint Blank Canvas to create the shape on her eye, with shades from Anastasia Beverley Hills Norvina Volume 4 Palette to pack on the bright pink colour.
While you may not necessarily feel brave enough to paint a bright colour across your whole eyelid every day, there are other ways to more subtly include a pop of colour to your eye makeup.
Alice x T uses a dot of a bright neon colour in the corner of her eye for several of her looks that otherwise appear very straightforward and natural. I think this is a brilliant way to employ colour, especially if a little nervous at first.
Brightly coloured eyeliner is a great way to encompass colour. You could start simple and classic, like Jayde Pierce does here with her two-toned blue cat-eye liner. She uses the 2019 limited edition Fenty Beauty vivid liquid eyeliner in 'hot tub club' and 'skinny dip'. With such a natural base, you can see how easy this makeup look would be to achieve!
Barbie Ferreira achieves a similar look in bright pink with an oversized wing - perhaps a little bolder, but cute, nonetheless.
'Future-forward' New York fashion label Chromat combines crazy colours, eyeliner and precise eyeshadow positioning in makeup for the models from their NYFW film, JOY RUN, which focuses on "the creative reimagining of athletics as a gender inclusive space". The use of coloured eyeliner across the hood of the eye and intense eyeshadow in both the inner and outer corners of the eye creates a striking, unique look that is sure to draw attention.
Minimalistic
If you're not so into vivid colour, you might find the white eyeliner trend more to your liking. Eyeliner like this worn by blogger Claudia Sulewski is simple, minimalistic and easy to recreate, but remains a bit different.
Similarly, that created by makeup guru Bretman Rock is a little bit different and creative whilst still being simple and easy to recreate.
Even more straightforward is Danielle Marcan's glammed up graphic eyeliner. Marcan elongates and opens her eye with the illusion of longer lower lashes through an extended wing from the bottom lash line. It's classy and sophisticated yet still a little different. I love how she uses it to frame her very simple eyeshadow look.
I really liked the simplicity of lining the lower waterline with colour as seen here in a look by makeup artist Adam Burrell. He uses two Marc Jacobs gel eye crayons in the shades 'Out of the Blue' and 'Deja Blue' to create this beautiful cornflower blue colour.
Euphoric Trends
If you've not already binge watched HBO's Euphoria, you're going to need to after you've seen some of these looks. Head makeup artist, Doniella Davy, is given pretty much free range in the makeup department for a group of troubled teens. Each look is just as colourful, glittery and exciting as the last one. She shares on her Instagram looks from each of the episodes for each character and the thought process behind them. One of my favourites is this dream-like turquoise look on Sydney Sweeney from Episode 6. I think the shape is absolutely beautiful, and the glitter on the lower lash line just brings the whole look together. I'd love to be able to create this look with less intense colours - think pastels, neutrals and softer tones - to make it more wearable.
Davy has an incredible use of rhinestones that I truly admire. Although I don't know if I personally could pull off anything like that, even if on a night out, I think the harmony between shape and colour of the eye makeup, and the detailing of the rhinestones is so beautiful. Here, you can see a selection of Davy's looks on Alexa Demie, who plays Maddy.
Karen Yeung's recreation of Maddy's rhinestone looks demonstrates a way in which that they can be carried into real life. Something like this probably needs to be worn with a simple base - to allow the rhinestones to really take centre stage.
I'm definitely going to be a trying some of these trends to some degree - even if just to sit in the comfort of my bed watching reruns of Friends all afternoon. I think wearing a mask, however irritating it might be at times, will give beauty lovers a new way to think about putting on their makeup and which of their face to focus on. It's exciting to see what brands and designers might bring out next in order to keep with the current climate!
ST.ART does not own the rights to any images used in this article.