By Grace Roberts

Creative designer. Menswear connoisseur. Mother. “Patron saint of dressing for the female gaze,” to quote the New York Times. Just some of the many labels Phoebe Philo has embodied over the years, the British designer has become a cult classic in all senses of the word; she has a huge following (who’ve christened themselves the “Philophiles”) and has created a classic style that is never in or out of style, but simply timeless. She has inspired women everywhere with her contemporary minimalism, a style that’s suited to the workplace and the casual alike, and her controlled versatility is a cultivated style that has gained traction with women and men alike. Her off-duty looks are just as perfectly curated as what she showcases on the runway, if not more so (though why compare the two, everything she designs is a masterpiece). Her classic style is founded on elements and choices that are ridiculously easy to incorporate into your own wardrobe, and perhaps what I’ve decided to call the “Philo philosophy” will influence your opinions on style and the effect it has on all aspects of lifestyle.

Born in France (meaning effortless style was basically instilled in her at birth, let’s be honest) but growing up in London, she attended famed art institute Central Saint Martins, and immediately following her graduation, began working as Stella McCartney’s assistant at Chloé. Her role as assistant lasted four years before replacing McCartney as creative director in the early 2000’s, where she embraced the time’s obsession with cool-girl celebrity style. After five years at Chloé, Philo took a break from the industry and focused on family, making it clear in the few interviews she did take that she took her time away from work very seriously, and it was not something that she had any reason to be ashamed about. She has always been an advocate for making lifestyle choices that do not necessarily follow the workaholic behavior that modern society favors, and is appropriately admired for this. In 2008, she was approached to be creative director of French fashion house Céline, which she accepted, taking the institution in a much more mature direction than the one she had favored at Chloé. She ended up working as a designer at Céline for ten years, stepping down in 2018 after receiving numerous awards and recognition for her direction.

In her time at Céline, Philo brought a fresh take on fashion and design, essentially reviving what has been a fading fashion house. Céline is a strictly womenswear brand, but Philo introduced a distinctly masculine aspect into her designs, not only pushing the envelope on traditional womenswear but showcasing the potential in Céline that had previously laid dormant. Philo practices what she preaches, and her own personal style is reflective of what she presents on the runway. She appreciates the power of simplicity, and finding the difference between creativity and excess. Something she is most known for incorporating into the Céline brand was a minimalist aesthetic, favoring a more simplistic look on fashion that fogoes showy design and instead focuses on clean lines, carefully crafted color palettes, and classic beauty. This was no small feat, but the designer has an eye for an objective approach to fashion, which she combines with her impressive experience in the industry. Though playing such a major role in brands which have been staples of the industry for so many years is nothing to laugh at, Philo navigated the waters with grace and poise, which influenced how audiences viewed her branding and signature styles. The idea that personal presentation and values influence the teams and projects one is a part of is a huge takeaway from Philo’s role in fashion, and a worthwhile life lesson.

Philo’s go-to look is this: a pair of fun pants, a knitwear piece, a peek of starched cuff or collar and a white sneaker (usually Stan Smith trainers). She was one of the first to wear the sneakers out when they were reissued, and with the help of other fashion moguls, influenced the sneakers reentry into trending footwear. Above all, she’s well-dressed at all times, never sacrificing elegance and class for what is designer or “in”. This is of course expected for a woman of her iconography and prowess in the industry, but Philo has an innate ability to keep her style classy and timeless. Philo is most known for the fact that she’s rarely seen in anything but pants (a woman after my own heart), choosing a distinctly menswear-influenced route for her personal style. What I think is most essential to understanding her off-duty looks is that she appreciates the power of the “uniform”; the construction of an outfit that fits her own brand and comfort. With this down, she is able to select different styles of essential pieces, putting together an outfit from there. This is an easy feat when your wardrobe consists of some of the most coveted pieces in the industry, but Philo doesn’t shy away from the basics, and shows that regardless of label, having a uniform that works for you is the key to consistently looking your best.

In order to fully understand the concept of this, let’s focus in on one of her most iconic signatures: the pants. These are not your average joe's pair of jeans—Philo can almost always be seen in a pair of really, really cool pants. There’s not all that much to it; very inspired by menswear (an influence which has transferred over into Céline’s pieces), she consistently rocks some of the most interesting pairs of trousers I have ever seen, all while keeping it classy. They contribute to her very specific silhouette, clean, concise, and no-nonsense. But how she manages this style, without looking cramped and stiff, is where the menswear influence comes into play. She often opts for bigger, baggier pieces, a boyfriend fit, and achieves it so elegantly, which is a skill we’d all like to be able to pull off without looking like the pillsbury doughboy. She is the ultimate it-girl for that better-than-your-boyfriend's vibe, and I applaud her. She’s turned a basic element of an outfit into something she is literally known for and doesn’t cede playfulness or creativity but still remains pulled together, and it’s this balance that I believe makes her so successful as a fashion influence off the runway.

A quote of Philo’s from 2005, when she began her Céline career, just about sums her up: “After my break, it felt better for me to work on an idea of a wardrobe than too much trend. I worked hard to create things that stand the test of time.” This perfectly encapsulates Philo—a timeless mode of dressing which will never go out of style, but will rather remain classic forever. Regardless of whether you’re a clothing minimalist or maximalist, this is a great piece of advice to take into consideration. Cultivating a wardrobe instead of buying a seperate piece from five different trends is helpful on multiple levels, not least of all in the fact that if you invest in high-quality basics that you know suit you, they will last you well into adulthood and contribute to a more sustainable approach to fashion. There are many literal ways you can incorporate Philo’s style into your own wardrobe, but it’s her outlook on clothes and designing that are the real gems you should be adding to your fashion outlook. Something I so admire about her is that she dresses to suit herself, not to coordinate with the volatile fleetingness of fashion trends and fads. She knows what works for her, creates a uniform from this and never has to worry about something not fitting her personal style or comfort level. For those of us who aren’t willing to be as bold as some with our fashion choices, this is not only an ideal route, but a flattering one as well.

It’s no surprise that the designer is notably a woman of few words, a minimalist in all aspects. She has never been one to indulge in the tabloids and paparazzi-powered events so common in her industry, and is known for keeping to herself, much to the dismay of her fashion groupies. She is often barely spotted at her own shows, making a brief appearance at their conclusions half-obscured in a large turtleneck. What’s not to love about this woman?! This is another aspect that I so love about her—she incorporates her beliefs and her style into every aspect of her life, be it style, family, public presence, and outlook on life. This is something we should all strive to incorporate into our lives; fashion shouldn’t always be a coverup, but something that you put into practice outside and inside. This is the woman that managed to convince Joan Didion to be in a Céline ad, after all, so she clearly knows what she’s doing.

Not defined by the brands she spearheaded (or the ones we foresee in the coming years), she instead brought a new take on fashion to the industry, and is known not by Céline or Chloé but by a style that is distinctly her own, and a lifestyle that reflects her confidence in herself. Not one to sacrifice her family for her career, she embodies real-world values and that legacy will last longer than any trend she has brought about. Her style and lifestyle choices are timeless, a testament to her prominence and respect not only within the fashion community, but within the greater scope of worldview. Philo is the ultimate style icon and aesthetic influence, providing the world not only with the best style inspiration and influences, but genuine lifestyle advice, wisdom that can be applied to the self just as much as it can be applied to a shirt. Sanctifying comfort over style is a crusade I am first in line on, and her ability to combine this with high fashion and a sense of self is a noble accomplishment.

ST. ART Magazine does not own the rights to any images owned in this article.