by Maria Goikhberg

The world of Russian food seems shrouded in a veil of secrecy, confusion, and surprises, varying in degrees of pleasantness. There is sour cream in places you wouldn’t expect, all dishes are variations on cabbage, onions and potatoes, and a thin layer of dill covers everything. I myself am not an expert on Russian food, and I fear a single article would not do justice to the cuisine of an entire culture. I will limit myself, instead, to addressing a small segment of its soup world, and I will begin my address with a soup that is served as a solid, instead of a liquid.

The solid soup in question is called «холодец» (‘holodets’), which loosely translates to something along the lines of ‘cold-thing’, and is a thick, bone broth, with lots of beef, and occasionally carrots, for decoration. This broth is cooled in a fridge until it obtains a jelly-like consistency. The meat jelly is eaten with horseradish sauce, and surprisingly enough, even some Russians are skeptical of its texture, and overall concept. Though the Russian/Ukrainian version is made of beef, or pork, similar dishes have histories in other cultures. ‘Holodets’, or aspic, can be made with various different ingredients from fish and poultry to fruits and vegetables, sometimes with added gelatin, depending on the country. I personally think it is a dish worth trying - you might find yourself enjoying the combinations of texture, and the sharp flavor of the horseradish.

Another soup my family ate a lot when I was growing up was «окрошка» (okroshka), the ‘broth’ of which is actually a drink called «квас» (kvass). Kvass is sometimes nicknamed Slavic Coca-Cola, in the sense that it is brown and fizzy. That is where the similarities end.

Kvass is a drink made on fermented rye bread, occasionally flavored with raisins or apples, which float at the top. When I was a child, these floating objects confused me. My brother helpfully explained that the floating raisins I saw were actually the brains of mice. While this is far from the case, kvass remains quite low down on my list of favourite beverages. Mouse-brains aside, Kvass serves as the base for this cold, summer soup. Boiled potatoes, green onions, a special bologna sausage called ‘doctor’s sausage’, hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers and a strong dose of dill are all finely diced, then poured over with Kvass, and served cold with a dollop of sour cream. In theory, sour cream, a yeasty bread drink, and a mixture of fresh and boiled vegetables does not sound appetizing. However, the ingredients come together in a surprisingly coherent way and make for a very refreshing summer soup, which I would also recommend trying if you ever get the chance.

Russians, of course, have a strong affinity for cabbage. This ingredient is included in many a dish, but a very popular cabbage soup is “щи”, or ‘shchi’, which comes in two variations, depending on whether you use fresh or pickled cabbage (like sauerkraut). The cabbage is combined in a broth with chopped potatoes, grated carrots, a chopped onion, and occasionally red pepper. This soup is served, just like the others, with sour cream and dill.

I will lastly address the most famous Russian soup, which is made with beets and occasionally beef: «борщ» or ‘Borshch’. There is a debate over whether Borsch is Russian or Ukrainian in origin, which I frankly do not feel qualified to comment on. I also take issue with the concept of ‘real’ Borsch, for the reason that each household tends to have its own spin on it, as is common with all traditional Slavic soups. Regardless, this beetroot soup is prepared with the usual carrots, potatoes and cabbage, with the occasional addition of other ingredients, such as beans. Ukrainian Borsch is typically eaten with ‘pampoushki’- a brioche-type buttery bread with garlic. Russian Borshch on the other hand, needs to be eaten with a few slices of rye bread. Both, however, are consumed with (shockingly)- a generous dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of dill.

Russian soup is designed to comfort. Growing up, my family always had a pot of soup on the stove, and it always made for a delicious and warming meal. While Russian culture doesn’t particularly endorse vegetarianism, the flexibility of the soups makes them easy to adapt to your diet. Soup is something all cultures share, so if you’re looking for a gateway into exploring Russian food, I think soup is an ideal place to start. These soups are simple, comforting, and delicious, and I hope you feel inspired to ignore the strange-sounding ingredient combinations, embrace the dill and sour cream, and dig in.

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